History

Around the 1960's Nelson Paint Company was urged by foresters to come up with a new way to mark trees. Nelson came up with paint encapsulated in .68 caliber gelatin balls. Paint balls. They decided that the easiest way to deliver these balls to the target was with a co2 powered air gun. Nelson went to Crosman Air guns, who built the Nelspot 707. Not enough were sold and Crosman backed out out of production. Daisy Air guns was approached, and asked to continue development of the gun. The result was the 007. The gun was manufactured exclusively for Nelson and was stamped Nelson Paint Company. Those of you familiar with Daisy air guns will recognize the typical Daisy dark gray paint and steel/ cast alloy construction. The guns were not individually numbered. Early guns had no removable barrel sleeve, and the magazine tube was threaded inside to accept threaded aluminum paint ball tubes. The pellet stop was plastic and snapped into the magazine center holes. As use of the gun evolved from industrial use to game play, Nelson made accessories available. The magazine threads were deleted with the switch to plastic paint tubes that stayed in the magazine by friction. A removable barrel sleeve was added to allow the use of barrel extensions. The plastic pellet stop which often broke on removal was replaced with a screw post. The gun was easy to strip with out special tools and only had two seals that prevented co2 leaks. For those reasons it became very popular with players and the after market which came up with hundreds of bolt on modifications and clones.

Around 1990 Nelson came up with their own direct feed gun . Then Nelspot 007 Challenger. (Nelson's paint ball lines are called the Challenger and Precision). It featured a Nylafil plastic receiver with direct feed elbow and sight rail. The threaded removable 8 inch barrel was Nylafil molded over a brass barrel. Early one had a wraparound pump handle with rubber grip. Later versions had a knurled aluminum grip. The valve body was replaced with one with an integrated quick change. The quick change was adjustable for 12 gram variances and required a cool 1/4 turn to remove or replace a 12 gram. The stock spacer/frame was used with large finger grooved rubber grips, plastic slip on trigger shoe, and front field strip screw. All the parts were available individually or as a kit to convert a stock 007. Unfortunately the Challenger with its plastic receiver, could not compete with the after market aluminum direct feed receivers that were available, which offered more barrel options and dual arm pump handles. The 007 and Challenger were discontinued around 1996. Parts and service from Nelson continue today.

Models

Operation

LOAD IN 12 GRAM CO2 CARTRIDGE
Remove the left grip by pulling out on the finger notch on the bottom of the grip. In Insert the 12 gram and turn the screw ring (or speed wheel) making sure the 12 gram is centered on the Piercing Pin. Tighten the screw firmly but DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN. Replace the left grip. Do the reverse to remove an empty 12 gram.

LOADING PAINT BALLS
Early 007's used aluminum 10 round paint ball tubes that threaded into matching threads inside the Magazine. Some times these tube are still found on older paint ball fields. Load paint by removing Magazine plug at the rear and drop in paint from a 10 round tube. You will only be able to hold 8 with the plug in place. The best way is to remove the plug and slide a tube right down the magazine that way you get 10 shots. The tube will stay in place with friction from the 2 ribs at the top of the tube. you probably wondered why they were there huh?

COCKING AND FIRING
With Bolt handle only: Pull the handle up, then back as far as it will go until it locks. With Pump Handle: Pull the pump Handle back until it locks. The Bolt is now locked to the hammer with the sear. The Main spring is compressed between the two. One ball drops into the breech. Push the Bolt Handle forward and down. Push the pump handle forward until it stops. This pushes the ball into the barrel. Ball Latches are not needed as the bore is tight. Pulling the trigger lifts the rear of the Sear dropping the front end, releasing the Hammer from the Bolt. The Hammer moves rearward under spring pressure, hits the shoulder of the Power tube, and opens the valve. The cup seal moves off the valve seat exposing the Power tube ports. CO2 passes through the ports down the Power tube to the ball, pushing the ball down the barrel. The Valve Spring closes the valve.

An Auto trigger works by having a specially shaped Sear that releases the Hammer the moment the action is pushed forward, with the trigger pulled.

Disssembly

1. Remove 12 gram or constant air bottle. Unload gun.
   
2. Remove Front and Rear Spacer screw to separate the Spacer/Frame Assembly from the rest of the gun.
   
3. Remove the Allen screws from the rear of the Magazine Barrel Assembly with a 5/64 allen wrench so the Valve Body can be removed.
   
4. Remove Valve Seat from the the Valve Body by unscrewing. For the stock seat use pliers. For after market use appropriate box wrench or Crescent wrench. Valve Spring will now drop out. Inspect Piercing Pin for damage. Inspect Piercing Pin Seal for damage, foreign material. Piercing pin may be unscrewed with a large blade screw driver. Re-install with a small amount of Loctite 271 on the thread. NOTE: It is not necessary to remove the Piercing Pin unless it is damaged. Seal may be replaced with out removing Pin itself. When re installing the valve seat hand tighten only DO NOT over tighten.
   
5. Remove Valve Cup Seal. Unscrew with pliers being careful not to damage it. Examine for defects, foreign material on the seal. Inspect the Valve Seat for nicks, burrs, corrosion. Inspect Valve Seat O-Ring for cuts, deformity, swelling. The Power Tube can now be removed from the Valve Seat. Inspect the tube for corrosion, cracks and that it is not bent. Replace parts as necessary. If using stock Cup Seal, put a drop of Loctite 242 on the Power Tube threads during assembly to keep it from unscrewing. If not no Loctite is required. NOTE: It is not necessary to disassemble the Power tube/ valve seat for routine maintenace. You should routinely inspect though.
   
6. If the Magazine Barrel Assembly is modified as mentioned in the modifications section, the Bolt, Main Spring, and Hammer will slide out the back. If not, position the Sear to expose the Sear Pin through the hole on both sides of the barrel. insert a 3/32 pin punch into the hole of the hammer on the right side and drive the pin out. Don't lose the Sear Spring located under the rear of Sear.
   
7. Hammer will now slide out the back. Inspect for corrosion, dirt. Clean and oil as necessary.
   
8. Remove Bolt Knob. Bolt and Main Spring will slide out the back. Inspect the Spring for deformity, corrosion, dirt. Inspect Bolt for corrosion, worn threads, dirt, paint, clean as necessary. Inspect Bolt O-Ring for cuts, deformity, swelling. If adjustable, unscrew adjuster and inspect as above.
   
9. Remove the Allen screws from the front of the Magazine Barrel Assembly with a 5/64 Allen wrench so the Barrel Sleeve can be removed. Inspect for corrosion, dirt, paint, clean as necessary.
   
10. Inspect Magazine Barrel Assembly inside and out for corrosion, dirt, paint, clean as necessary. Remove old style Pellet stop by depressing tabs on both side of Magazine, and push out from with a suitable rod or dowel. New Pellet stop may be removed by unscrewing.
    
11. Remove Left grip by pulling out on the finger notch on the bottom of the grip. Remove Right grip by removing Grip Screw.
    
12. Remove Front and Rear Frame Screw. Use a 3/32 pin punch to drive out Trigger Pin. Trigger can now be removed. Disconnect trigger spring.
    
13. Remove 12 gram Screw Ring with plier. Remove Screw by screwing up into Frame.
    
14. Reassemble in reverse. Note: when replacing Sear pin drive it in from the left side. Care must be taken to insure proper positioning of the Sear Spring. Hammer goes in with the "hook" of the sear forward. Be sure all parts are tight but not over tight. Don't mar parts with pliers or wrenches. Install Valve Body with Piercing Pin at the 6 O'clock position. I usually leave out the set screws except for the Barrel Sleeve. A small drop of Loctite 242 on screw threads will help keep them from loosening. Do not use on the Valve Seat.
    

Cleaning

The 007 is 90% steel gun and will rust unless you plated it or coated it. Like any gun it should be kept clean religiously. Clean it each time you are done using it. Don't leave it for tomorrow or next week. A clean gun is a long lasting and reliable gun. As you can tell I'm not fond of neglected guns. Strip the gun as above. Use alcohol in a spray bottle to clean all parts of paint and dirt let dry and oil. You could clean with water but you must spay everything with a oil based moisture displacer after. Stainless steel parts can be cleaned in water of course. Clean paint out of the barrel with a squeegee. And then follow up with a shop towel or a large cotton shotgun bore swab. The magazine and rear bore can be cleaned with shop towels or a large cotton shotgun bore swab. A word about oiling. Oil every thing not coated or plated. Use a good oil. I like Hoppe's #9. KC Trouble Free or other hi performance oils are not necessary as they are designed for valves and cold temperatures. The gun won't get that cold and the valve is forgiving. WD-40 wont last long enough. 3-in-1 is okay. A good non- silicone spray oil is ok. What ever you use, don't over oil. It will attract and hold dirt and grit. Just enough to coat. In extremely dusty conditions or in freezing weather use no oil. Only use a little extra oil if you are going to store the gun for months. 12 grams have a small amount of oil so you don't need to put any down the Piercing Pin. A small amount on O-rings and seals helps.

Parts Interchange

There are hundreds of paint guns made by almost as many companies that were based on the "007". I am only going to list a few that I'm sure interchange so you get the picture.

Accessories

There was a wide variety of accessories available. Some made by Nelson and a lot made by the after market. I am only going to list the most common. Manufacturers are in parenthesis if I knew. Many parts are no longer made but may still be floating around out there. LAPCO and Cooper-T are re-releaseing many of their old parts.

PUMP HANDLES

Miscellaneous

Tuning

The 007 can be tuned a lot of different ways. Velocity can be increased or decreased with power tubes alone, springs alone, hammer weights, or with a combination of all three. Power tubes are usually stamped with the number size. Springs are colored to represent stiffness. Yellow: Light, Green: Medium Light, Blue: Medium, Red: Heavy. Hammers are not marked so you would have to weigh them if you do not know. Stock set up has a 50 gram hammer, main spring equivalent to a blue spring, valve spring equivalent to a yellow spring. This set up gets you about 10-15 shots between 300 and 200 Feet Per Second (FPS). With a stock set up, jet sizes can be used to put the velocity in the "ball park" you want. Then the springs can be used to further adjust up or down. Generally start with a blue main spring and a yellow valve spring. Increase the velocity by using a stiffer main spring. Decrease by using a lighter spring. Springs and power tubes make rough adjustments. Velocity, like in any gun can fluctuate throughout the day, and tearing down you gun to change springs after each game gets old quickly. An adjustable bolt is called for. With the bolt at the lowest setting, combine springs and power tubes so that your first 3 shots are as close to 280 (or whatever you fields' speed limit is) as possible. If your velocity is there, then you are done. If not use the adjuster to get there.

Now that you understand the above you are probably thinking that you have to have a complete assortment of springs, tubes, and hammers in order to use your 007. You don't. There's a simple formula from LAPCO. The ingredients are: Adjustable anti-kink bolt, LAPCO Ultralight Hammer 34 gram, LAPCO #6 Jet Set, Complete set of springs. Start with a blue main spring, red valve spring, bolt set to lowest setting. Your first shot should be about 260- 270 fps. If not use the adjuster so that it is. If you have to adjust the hammer so that the gun fails to cock, then use a red main spring and start over. With the red main and red valve, I get about 35-40 shots per 12 gram in 65-70 degree weather. LAPCO has a 40 gram hammer, but I have not had any experience with it.

The lower the velocity for the first shot, the more shots you will get. The warmer the day is the more shots you will get and the hotter it will shoot. The colder the opposite occurs. An aluminum valve body will affect the number of shots as it warms faster than steel. In theory, any power tube or hammer combination will work if you spring it properly.

Modifications

BOLT
Stock and non adjustable bolts have a flat face. Use a 25/64 or 13/36 drill to make it concave so that it cups the paint ball as it pushes it in to the barrel. Grind and polish the top of the bolt so it forms a gentle ramp to pushes the balls back up the magazine when you cock the gun. This will reduce pinched balls. If using direct feed, ramp the bolt at the same angle of the feed elbow.

HAMMER SEAR
Remove the sear and file the front so that it matches the angle of the bolt rear. This will reduce wear and make cocking the gun smoother.

TRIGGER
The pull is pretty short and light as it is. Put a trigger shoe on for comfort. The auto trigger works best with a ramped bolt and direct feed.

BACK BOTTLE ADAPTER
Drill the feed hole within the adapter to 1/8. Don't go too deep or you may come out of the side of the adapter. This will increase CO2 flow by decreasing resistance from the small original hole.

BARREL
Stock barrel is steel and will take a beautiful hone that will out last aluminum. Keep it oiled to prevent rust.

MAGAZINE BARREL ASSEMBLY
Its steel so you can chrome, powder coat, Parkerize, black oxide, plate, what ever you want. Most paints however are attacked by the fill in paint balls so they don't last too long. At the bottom there is a slot cut into the tube where the Hammer Sear protrudes. It ends about 3/8 of an inch from the rear. Remove the Valve Body and Bolt/Hammer. Use a Dremel tool with a cut off wheel or hack saw to extend the slot so it is open all the back back. This will allow you to remove the Bolt and Hammer without removing the sear from the Hammer. They will slide out the back with the valve body removed. The rear bore will hone beautifully also.

SPACER/FRAME
This can get most of the same treatments as the Magazine Barrel Assembly. If you use a quick change or constant air, remove the 12 gram screw at the bottom to save some weight. Plug the hole with an Allen screw. Plug the holes for the Nelson wire stock on the sides of the spacer, with Allen screws to keep dirt out.

Parts List

Part numbers are current for ordering from Nelson Paint Company. Prices are cheap but check with Nelson for the latest.

Parts Sources

The best bet is to keep your eyes and ears open. Ask veteran players who may have old guns or gear they may want to get rid of. Paint ball stores that have been around since the late 80's and early 90's may still have old stock lying around. Fields sometimes have parts or 007's that were used as rentals.

Nelson Paint Company
P.O. Box 2040
Kingsford, MI 49802-2040

LAPCO
www.lapcopaintball.com
Adjustable stainless steel bolts
Ultra light hammers
Jet sets #4 and #6
Field strip screws
Direct feed receivers

Cooper-T
www.funsupply.com/coopert.htm
8010 Lake Shore Road
Angola, New York 14006
716-549-5730
Back bottle adaptors

Edit note: It is increasingly harder to find true nelson parts, and the above suppliers may no longer carry them. You can also send Crash Landing an Email inquiry, as sometimes suitible replacements can be located via the online store.

Disclaimer

Paint guns are NOT toys. Misuse or careless use may cause serious injury or death. Firearm safety rules should be followed. Always use approved mask,goggles, and ear protection. Always use a barrel plug. The information contained here is accurate to the best of my knowledge and research. I assume no responsibility for any of the parts or modifications, damage to paint guns or any one else resulting from the use of this information. Be safe. Use common sense and use at your own risk. If you plan to use this on your web site please let me know and at least give me credit. If you have any intelligent questions or comments you may contact me at s3c2mrg@prodigy.net

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